We'll be Home for Christmas

Oh, hey there! Long time, no see.

Many (or some, or none...) of you may have been wondering what's next for me and Tony. I wrote fairly consistently for over a year, and now have been silent for a few months. What's the deal? I'll let you in on a secret - coming home from our year abroad was tough. We've been doing lots of adjusting, and things are starting to be normal again.

Since we came home, we've been helping my dad at work, I've volunteered downtown for the American Lung Association and given a talk at our alma mater about teaching abroad, we've caught up with friends and family, celebrated Halloween and Thanksgiving, tried to hike 25 miles (and settled for hiking half of that), interviewed for a job in Peru, gotten our hopes up for it, and ended up turning it down. What's next for us? We're still not sure, but the picture is coming in a bit clearer now. More on that once the cards have officially been dealt.

As for now, I'm writing to you from Washington D.C. We came down here for a couple days to visit my bestie, and I've been pretending I'm back in Korea - we had Korean BBQ for dinner and bingsu for dessert, we visited a Korean-inspired café that serves lattes with artwork in the foam, and I bought some moisturizer at Korean skincare store Tonymoly. But another purpose of our visit to the District is that tomorrow we'll be on an early morning flight from Dulles on our way to Cape Town, South Africa! Since it seems we'll be stateside for a while (again, details to come...), we decided to gift one another an overseas vacation for Christmas. One last international tryst before we lead normal(ish) lives for a while.

Why South Africa? Well, for starters, it's summer there! They've got great diving, hiking, wineries, and of course, our friend Fallon lives there! We taught together overseas, but in March she left after 3+ years in Korea. Now we'll be seeing each other once more! Two weeks on the southern coast of Africa, and then we'll be home for the holidays, and maybe even ready for a white Christmas.

Frustrating and Magnificent: Beijing

When anyone asks what the last stop in our month-long journey was, I never answer "China." Sure, we visited Thailand, Vietnam, and the Philippines, but we stayed in each for a week or more. No, our last two days abroad were spent in Beijing only - and in such a vast nation, I can't possibly claim to have seen or experienced even a fraction of its culture. That said, our forty-eight hours in Beijing were a whirlwind of exasperation and wonder.

We would have loved to spend more time in China, to see more of what it has to offer. Originally, we had planned on spending two weeks there with Tony's parents instead of Thailand, but plans  changed. We still wanted to see at least the Terracotta Soldiers in Xi'An on our own, but when we saw the price of a tourist visa (hundreds of dollars), we opted for the more affordable way to make a pit stop in China: the 72-hour visa-free layover. China is very stingy and strict with their tourists: they questioned us heavily upon arrival at immigration; it was impossible to find Wi-Fi even for foreigners living and teaching there; and even in this tourist-magnet, capital city there was minimal spoken English. Really, we never struggled communicating until we reached Beijing. In fact, China kind of reminded me of the USA: geographically enormous, strong-willed, powerful, and puts foreigners on a back-burner. Who knew?

So, with our visa-free "layover," we had two days to explore. The plan: 1. meet up with my close friend and her boyfriend, who are teaching in Shenyang, a handful of hours away by train. 2. Explore the city together. 3. Go to the Great Wall.

Well, it was impossible to get in touch because even the hotel's Wi-Fi was unreachable for foreign phones. So Tony and I rode into the city hoping for a free connection at a coffee shop or restaurant. No such luck - we're not in Korea anymore, where Wi-Fi is free and accessible even on the subway. Instead, we spent an hour or two wandering around until we finally found a spot for lunch and internet. Thanks a lot, China.

Once we got in touch with Chelsea (of all social platforms, only Snapchat managed to function) over Kung Pao chicken and an enormous teapot, we made a plan to meet that evening for dinner. That way, they could resolve their Airbnb issues, and we were free to roam. Thank goodness we had bought a guidebook in Manila, because without being able to use our phones, we would have been helpless. So we kicked it old school, reading about which historical sites to visit, and pulling out an actual, physical map to get around. Archaic. 😜

Our first stop was Tienenmen Square. There were statues and structures, mausoleums and museums, but we resigned ourselves to a simple stroll past the sites - and a respectful selfie with Mao - before continuing on to the Forbidden City, which was humongous and incredible. They had converted this ancient site into a walking museum, preserving artifacts and temples in small rooms, palaces, and courtyards throughout its span of 178 acres. As you can imagine, it took quite a while to peruse! One last stop before dinner: the Temple of Heaven, aptly named, where sacrifices used to take place. The colors and architectural details at each of these stops were magnificent; each of the four corners on many of the square roofs was adorned with several miniature dragons in single-file, and the ancient marble carvings of dragons were weathered but still impeccable.

Ni Hao, Mao

A moat near the entrance to the Forbidden City

I loved this dragon statue. But can you see the line of mini ones that flank the roof's corner?

The Temple of Heaven before day's end

What a day! We had gone from stressed to impressed in mere hours. We had the best weather, too: clear skies, warm temp, and a nice breeze. Finally, we had escaped the heat and humidity of Southeast Asia, thank goodness!

The next morning, we met with Chelsea and Eric at a bus station, mini picnic in tow. The day was here at last, and it was bittersweet: our last day in Asia would be spent at the Great Wall of China. I couldn't think of a more perfect ending to our epic adventure than at a site as ancient, impressive, and well-known as this Wonder of the world. It was the culmination not only of our month-long voyage, but also our entire year abroad. It may seem cliche, but to me it was perfect.

After an hour-long bus ride and a private transfer that ripped us off, we spent a great deal on the tickets (but really, how much money would actually be too much to see the Great Wall?) and boarded a shuttle that took us to a suspicious chairlift high above the treeline. The Wall sat, sprawled across the pinnacle of the mountain range, formidable, until it disappeared over a peak or around a bend on either side.

This was the Mutainyu visit site, and we were so glad to have chosen it over Badaling, which is closer to Beijing, but therefore also much more crowded. There were still many visitors alongside us, but not too many where our pictures were being ruined by unaware strangers. It was a perfect day, and I can say that over the years of hearing how magnificent the Wall was, I was afraid it wouldn't meet my expectations. Alas, it surpassed them.

 

The Good, the Bad, the Ugly: The Philippines

Our last long stretch was to the Philippines, and after weeks of travel and hot weather, we were so ready for their world-famous beaches and pristine waters. But, our experience was different from our expectations.

Our first stop was in Manila. I don't want to waste too much time discussing our dismal two days in the capital. We stayed at a really crappy hostel that reminded me of a frat house; it had ants, questionable bedsheets, and Tony's favorite shorts got ruined after he set them on the bathroom counter because of the pure bleach that had been used to clean it (but hey, at least something was cleaned). The most interesting thing that we did in this city was watch the streets flood at nighttime, therefore getting trapped downtown and having to check into a hotel without our baggage. We also saw a historical church and ate some delicious donuts.

Maybe the prettiest thing in Manila.

Palawan

Manila was so unappealing that we decided to get to the airport five hours early for our flight to Palawan, one of the Philippines' most desirable islands. Fortunately, we were offered some empty seats on a different flight that was leaving three hours earlier than our scheduled itinerary, so we enthusiastically hopped on board. We stayed at what I call a hippie hut; it was basically a bamboo hut on the beach at a campground. The good: it was a chill atmosphere that offered a "family dinner" each night with delicious food. The bad: bugs, misleading beachfront, and the dirtiest bathroom we've seen (and we like to camp quite a bit). There wasn't much to do at this accommodation, and the mosquitoes were vicious, so we rented a mo-ped for two days and quickly learned how to drive it. What a blast! We took it across the island (a one-hour drive, impressive for a first-time trip) to a beautiful and fairly secluded beach with crystal-clear water. We also enjoyed snorkeling at Starfish Island (we saw three or four!) and Pambato reef (we saw a gigantic triggerfish!).

The Hippie Hut

View from Starfish Island

Sunrise on the beach

Tony, the mo-ped chauffeur

Cebu

We were really excited to arrive at this last island because a) we were staying at a comfortable Airbnb with a real bathroom and no bugs, and b) we were planning another scuba dive! While staying in the city, we enjoyed looking for nice places to eat, shop, and get coffee. We learned quite a bit about the colonial times and the Spanish influence in the Philippines. I noticed also the influence of the Spanish language on the local tongue, called Tagalog. We visited a church downtown where a simple, but old and famous, wooden cross stands, placed there nearly five centuries ago by Ferdinand Magellan.

Magellan's Cross

On the day of our dive, we woke up early and taxied to the bus station, boarded a 3-hour bus to Moalboal, and took a tuk-tuk to Panagsama Beach. When we arrived just after 1 in the afternoon, the dive shop where we had arranged our dive was quite unprofessional, we decided to cancel, find a different shop, and schedule a dive for the following morning. Now, this was supposed to have been a day trip, but there we were, checking into a hostel without baggage again. But every dollar spent is a vote, and we didn't want to support a business that had made us feel uncomfortable. So we spent the afternoon at the beach, had a candle-lit dinner by the shore, watched a fisherman brutally massacre an octopus by slamming it against a concrete slab, got attacked by a flying cockroach, and went to bed early. You know, normal stuff.

In the morning, we breakfasted and arrived at the dive shop by 8:30, very eager for our dive at Pescador Island. We loved it so much, we decided to do a second one at Sardine Run, famous for its cloud of millions of sardines so thick they literally block out the sunlight when you swim near them. And the most amazing thing of all: we saw three sea turtles! I was so excited I gasped and water leaked into my mouth. One of the turtles swam by me, only a meter from my face! It was incredible. We were happy and sleepy during the 3-hour bus journey back to the city.

This sea turtle changed my life.

A big, fat starfish

This famously huge swarm of sardines attracts divers from around the world.

Our trip to the Philippines was exceptional at times, and deplorable at others. I would never discourage someone from planning a trip to these islands; I simply wish we'd have planned our own trip differently. We would have skipped the capital entirely and chosen a different accommodation and excursions in Palawan. But truthfully, the Philippines was home to some really beautiful nature, and I think that with some work, it could make itself a desirable destination for travelers in the future.

Something for Everyone: Vietnam

After correcting an unsightly error in our travel preparations causing us to order an expensive rush visa approval to enter Vietnam, we cut our losses and put the mistake in our past. We have been traveling pretty frugally, so we forgave ourselves for the bump in the road and moved on. Thanks to the rush service, we arrived in Hanoi unscathed and actually were able to skip the long lines at immigration... Silver linings, people.

We checked into a nice hostel in the Old Quarter which has been our favorite hostel so far - tidy, cool, and very helpful, Tomodachi House charges only $8 a night, and they even helped us arrange some bus transfers and a great tour. Highly recommend!

We spent half of our time in Vietnam wandering the intensely trafficked streets of Hanoi, sweating our skins off, and the other half exploring local wonders of nature. Can you guess which half was our favorite?

Hanoi

Hanoi was hot, humid, loud, and overcrowded. In a city of eight million inhabitants, four million motorbikes roam the streets at all hours. Yes, half of the citizens own a bike! And they're not scared to run you over - or so it felt. In Hanoi, we learned that every time we crossed the street, we were taking a leap of faith. The trick is to find a miniature gap in the traffic (because you'll never find a long stretch of emptiness) and stare down the oncoming drivers threateningly. Then, once you get to the center of the street, turn your head the other way and repeat. It's not an exaggeration to say we thought we might not make it.

Street food in Hanoi is delicious and exceedingly inexpensive. We devoured our bun cha (pork noodle soup), pho (slow-prepared and flavorful broth with rice noodles, beef, and herbs), and bunbonambo (rice noodle soup with meat, lettuce and other veg - I describe it as a soup + salad + entree, all in one). Was the weather too hot for soup? Yes. But we didn't mind because it was so tasty, and only a dollar or two per dish. Tony enjoyed cooling off with the $1 beers, as well.

We strolled through the streets, visited Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum and museum (unfortunately they closed just upon our arrival, and we never had the opportunity to enter), visited many a cafe (like the Harry Potter-themed "Always" cafe, and the nostalgic Communist cafe "Cong Caphe"), and spent time people-watching and sipping passionfruit juice by the Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Silly & in love at Hoan Kiem Lake

One of our favorite attractions in Hanoi came as a surprise to both of us: during our research, we came across the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater as a major tourist suggestion and source of cultural pride. We were skeptical, but attended anyways since it was so prevalent online, plus it was an excuse to stay away from the muggy outdoors for a bit. As the performance started (a full house at 8pm on a weekday, I may add), a live band of musicians with traditional instruments began to play. I don't know much about Eastern music, but it sounded authentic and beautiful to my foreign ears. Then, the lacquered wooden puppets made their appearance, splashing in the pool of water that was their stage. They were lovingly crafted with twirling limbs, or slithering reptilian bodies; a fox even climbed a tree, and dragons spouted sparkling fire from their snouts. And I swear, my twenty-five-year-old self was astonished by the magic of it all - how were they moving? Once in a while I could catch a glimpse of a long, bamboo rod underneath the water, but mostly the performance was carried out masterfully and the entire audience was highly entertained.

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater

Trang An

Outside of the city, we found an atmosphere that was much more our style. If you know us, you know we are not city slickers; we feel much more at home in the countryside, away from the traffic and crowds, where we can relax and take it all in. We had the opportunity to enjoy some of Vietnam's spectacular natural treasures during a day tour to beautiful Trang An, and during a couple days' stay in relaxing Cat Ba Island and Ha Long Bay.

We spent the day on a tour to see the biggest temple in Vietnam, Bai Dinh. In a country that is 85.5% Buddhist, their temple was a national prize and is still being worked on today. It was enormous and beautiful and included a huge and stunning gold Buddha, but to be honest - and trying not to sound as pretentious as possible - after a year in Korea and a few weeks in Southeast Asia, I'm getting a bit templed-out. It is neat to see, though, how the style of the temples change depending on their location; Korea's temples are wooden with intricately painted bright ceilings and details; Thailand loves the gilded, bedazzled glamour; and Bai Dinh was a bit of a mix, which makes sense geographically.

 

After the temple visit, we continued on to scenic Trang An, where the recent King Kong movie was actually filmed. There, we boarded a small rowboat where local women rowed us through the shallow and strikingly clear waters, between enormous limestone cliff faces and through low caves. I wish I could describe the beauty with my words alone, but I don't think it's possible. We floated through the breathtaking landscape, and in those moments I realized a new value of traveling: the food is delicious and the people are interesting, but here I found a slice of serenity that will be with me always.

Ha Long Bay & Lan Ha Bay

A couple days later, we boarded a bus to a boat to another bus and arrived at Cat Ba Island, an easy (and more affordable) access point to Ha Long Bay, a strong magnet for nature-loving tourists. Thanks to A Life of More, a blog I consulted religiously while planning our trip, we were able to transfer from the mainland to the island, stay in an affordable neighborhood, and book a pretty cheap day cruise. With Cat Ba Ventures, we cruised both the quieter Lan Ha Bay, which was as beautiful as its more famous sister, Ha Long Bay. Both were gorgeous and peaceful, and since it's the off-season, we managed to avoid any potential crowds and boat traffic, which made for a serene experience and more impressive photos. Besides enjoying the view and an inclusive lunch, we toured a local fish farm at a floating village, swam in the bay to one of the thousands of uninhabited sandy beaches tucked secretly among the limestone giants, and kayaked through several caves. What a worthy location to be named one of the seven natural wonders of the world!

Cruising through the bays

Kayaking in Ha Long Bay

Vietnam truly had it all - history, culture, city, gastronomy, coffee, and impeccable nature. And to think - we only saw a tiny portion in the north of this unique nation! I agree that Vietnam is a worthy destination for city-dwellers and adventure-seekers alike, but I implore you: do not go in August unless you want to peel your clothes off at the end of the day and hang them to dry!

Ancient Artifacts: Cambodia

After Thailand, we began our solo adventure. First stop: Siem Reap, Cambodia.

To be honest, I didn't have much interest in this stop on our travels. This destination was purely for Tony. Siem Reap is home to Angkor Wat, a very famous temple ruins. Though the images I had seen of the site online were impressive, I wouldn't have been convinced to fly there simply to see them in person... especially not if I had to wake up at 4am to see them during a sunrise. But, part of marriage is doing things you aren't thrilled about because your spouse is.

So, there we were, landing in a small airport and getting a fancy new visa sticker in our passport, for a short and sweet three-day visit. We were picked up at the airport in a tuk-tuk sent from our hotel, and either we were assigned that particular driver, Sokhun, or he liked us enough to be our driver for the entirety of the visit. Our hotel, the Golden Mango, was really nice, and tucked away down a private dirt road, complete with a restaurant with free breakfast, an oasis of a pool, and a much-needed laundry service (after ten sweaty days on the go in Thailand).

Sokhun, the tuk-tuk champion

Our first day, we relaxed by the pool and checked out the bazaar, where the food was delicious and SO CHEAP. We each got a cocktail and shared a Cambodian sampler platter (though the food was plentiful enough to serve as both our dinners) for about $12.80. There's no way our drinks alone would be under that price in the States, and food? Forget about it. We didn't know what we were eating, but it was good. Some kind of spring rolls, two dishes of mixed meat/vegetable/sauce, and perfectly ripe mango slices for dessert. After checking out the local merchants' many wares, we  headed back to the hotel for an early night's sleep before an even earlier start the next day.

Picture-perfect skies at the night bazaar

Sooner than either of us were ready, our very unwelcome wake-up alarm was already buzzing. I was extremely cranky, even after our hotel gave us breakfast to-go and we were lumbering into Sokhun's waiting tuk-tuk. It was still too dark to be out and about, but he seemed used to it - and soon we found out why. Sunrise at Angkor Wat is a very common and popular thing to do. After we bought our  day passes to see all the temples in the area, we joined the rest of the tuk-tuk traffic headed toward the ruins in the darkness. We thought we were early - the horizon was only just starting to reveal some dark orange hues - but upon arrival, I realized that some visitors must have gotten there hours before. By the time the sun did rise, there must have been thousands of us. And soon, we discovered that this wasn't only because of the beautiful experience and incredible photos... Cambodia gets HOT. Very early. By 8:30am we were panting.

Truly, Angkor Wat was spectacular. Tony geeked the entire time, trying to imagine what it had looked like during its heyday. He kept exclaiming to me, "Look at these carvings!" and "How did they do this?" and "Do you see this?!" After a couple hours, we left, quite impressed. Tony was satisfied, having checked something off of his bucket list.

Angkor Wat at sunrise

 For a few more hours, Sokhun drove us to see some other impressive ruins (Siem Reap is chock full of them!). My favorite was Bayon, which was smaller and less famous and therefore not as crowded; it displayed dozens of stone faces throughout its many facades. By late morning, we were hungry and hot and exhausted, ready to go back to the pool and take a nap.

Ruins of Bayon. How many faces can you find?

Since our second day in Siem Reap was the main event, our third and final day was going to be more relaxed; we didn't have much of a plan, but Sokhun offered to take us to a nearby lake. We thought, great, we can relax and enjoy nature for an hour or so before making our way to the airport in the afternoon. After forty-five minutes' drive, we realized the impact of the language barrier. Unbeknownst to us, we were to spend $20 each to purchase a ticket to board a motorized longboat that would take us around the lake area and floating villages for two hours. Surprise! Well, we had made the long journey out to the boonies, so we acquiesced. We didn't have cash, though, so joke's on Sokhun - he had to lend us a fifty.

Onto the longboat we went on our ecotour, although the racket produced by that motor surely created some noise pollution of its own. Our driver tried high-lighting some points of interest along the way, but I couldn't understand him through his thick accent and that seriously loud engine. We passed spindly wooden homes built upon stilts, some so precarious and exaggerated, they looked like something from a Dalí painting.

The floating village also included government buildings, schools, and fish farms of similar structure. We ate lunch at a local (floating) restaurant - shrimp soup for me and fried crocodile for Tony. I chatted with another girl on our boat, who revealed she was from Brazil, and I had the opportunity to try my hand at conversational Portuguese for the first time ever (and quite successfully, if I may say so). We disembarked onto land near the village and visited a school with only two walls and a ceiling, plus a dirt floor. The children were learning English! They were so sweet and excited to practice with native speakers. The teacher told us that the school is hurting and desperate for donations to provide supplies and resources. Unfortunately Tony and I didn't have cash (we still owed Sokhun!) but bank transfers are accepted as well. Take a look at these sweet kids and tell me you don't have a couple dollars to spare! **You can donate to Kampong Phluk school here!**

The sweet kids of Kampong Phluk

We returned safely to our tuk-tuk at the end of our tour, without having seen any crocodiles, unfortunately. We stopped at an ATM on our way back to town and repayed Sokhun, plus a generous tip. And finally, we concluded our amazingly brief trip to Cambodia and bid farewell to its dusty roads, relaxed atmosphere, and friendly people. If we'd only known how much we would enjoy the vibe of this area... but now, it's time to move on to Vietnam.

An Adventure is Born: Thailand

In the flurry and chaos of finishing up at Kids College, I never had a chance to write about what was going on during our last weeks, days, and hours in South Korea. And not only have I been lacking the time to write about it, but I've also had very little time to even think about it. Tying up loose end at work, packing up last-minute luggage, and saying goodbye to our colleagues, friends, and students - it had all rushed by impossibly quickly. And suddenly, it was Friday: our last day of teaching, and the next day, our last day in Korea. On Sunday, we were up bright and early, fully packed and anxious. We boarded one last taxi to the bus station, and a bus to the airport, and then, it was finished. By the end of the day, we were in Bangkok, ready to begin our next whirlwind adventure. And that's where I begin this new series.

Together with Tony's parents, we had decided to celebrate the end of our year abroad in Thailand for a family sojourn. Tony and I planned out the details meticulously - from where to stay, how to transfer, activities, even down to which street foods to sample. This trip was a new challenge in many ways: first, we had to accommodate the different standards that come with parents (i.e., no 12-hour bus rides or dingy hostels), but we managed to budget well; luckily Thailand is very affordable. Second, this will be our longest trip yet, a whole month! I'll try to post about what we are up to (but I'm obviously already terribly behind), and you can follow us to see everyday photos on Instagram as well (and with the hashtag #EasternHamorsphere). But for now, check out the highlights from our 10-day visit to Thailand:

Bangkok

We stayed in a modern, trendy hotel that was very clean and chic, a stark contrast to the city in which it's located. We spent our time exploring local temples, enjoying nearby restaurants, and spending some time on the river. Traffic in Bangkok is out of this world - and the public transit makes it even harder to believe. A popular way to get around is by "tuk-tuk," which is like a motorized trike with a caged bench seat in the back. Believe it or not, all four of us fit in one! Whizzing through the streets and slipping between cars was equally terrifying and wholly entertaining. 

Crammed in the tuk-tuk - Please keep all hands and arms inside the vehicle!

We also took a trip in a longboat around the canals to see a side of Bangkok that can't be viewed from the streets. My in-laws, who traveled through Italy in 2013, agreed that Bangkok could be the "Venice of the East;" if Thailand's tourism industry continues to grow in the right direction, it could be just as nice. On Tony's birthday, we spent the evening on a river cruise complete with buffet dinner, drinks, and "live music" - I say this tongue-in-cheek because they simply played original tracks over a speaker while a bedazzled performer lip-synced the words. And, despite the lack of a dancefloor, my insistence persuaded Tony to dance with me, just for a few songs.

Golden Mount Temple

Night views from the river cruise

Chiang Mai

On the first of August, we were off to the airport to fly to Chiang Mai, the "Pearl of the North." And so it was! We all agreed that Chiang Mai was magnificent yet cozy. We stayed in an old-fashioned hotel - think The Shining without the "red rum" - that treated us like celebrities. Our room was upgraded to an enormous suite (I counted five chairs plus a bench, four tables, and a desk). We received fruit baskets daily and were even given keepsakes upon our departure. The customer service was unparalleled!

Wat Doi Suthep Temple

This portion of the trip was jam-packed with adventures and memorable excursions. Our favorites? The night bazaar for shopping, Wat Doi Suthep Temple near the peak of a mountain, an elephant sanctuary, and, for us girls, a Thai cooking class. Tony and I also visited Tiger Kingdom; it was very cool to see the tigers up close and even pet them, but it was very touristy and the enclosures and display of the animals left us feeling uneasy. On the other hand, the elephant sanctuary was incredible and really ethical and authentic. The elephants had been rescued from abusive situations in which they are paraded around and ridden (which is catastrophic for their anatomical structure - and I could see why upon feeling how their spines protrude from their bodies). There were no gift shops or gimmicks; the caretakers were truly there for the well-being of the creatures. It was absolutely amazing to feed the elephants, stroke them, bathe them, and even receive a hug from their strong trunk!

Koh Samui & Koh Tao

After a couple days in Chiang Mai, it was time, unfortunately, to depart. We flew to Koh Samui, one of Thailand's larger and more popular islands. The feel was very tropical and more relaxed than the mainland, and it was a mix of family vacationers and party animals. To our great dismay, our luggage was lost for almost a day, but upon recovering it, we enjoyed time at the beach, fresh seafoods, and tropical beverages. We also ferried to a nearby, more secluded island: Koh Tao. Tony discovered this destination as a desirable location for scuba diving. And since Mom & Dad H are certified and loving their new hobby, we decided we had to go! Tony and I had to take a refresher course in the morning since it had been over a year since our last dive. But it was simple and before we knew it we were in the ocean for our first salt-water dives! We explored a shipwreck from World War 2, checked out a swim-through cave, and saw incredible sealife - an enormous change from our customary fresh-water quarry dives in Pennsylvania. We saw corals, anemones, rays, and tons of fish: parrot fish, butterfly fish, angel fish, trigger fish, puffer fish, and on and on. Now that I've dived in the great blue ocean, I'm bursting to go again!

Before long, our visit was over; the parents were headed home, and Tony and I were ready to embark on our next chapter. We had eaten incredible dishes - pad Thai, curries, Tom Yum soup, lots of fresh fruit, noodles, and on. And now, my mom-in-law and I can recreate these flavors at home since we learned in our cooking class. It was a bittersweet end: we had had loads of fun, but Dad hasn't been feeling well and was ready to return home. Plus, after months apart, three more weeks til we're home will be a piece of cake! Meanwhile, Tony and I were anxious to continue our travels and embark into a new culture. Next stop: Cambodia!

Seoraksan: a tale of personal growth

Last weekend, I put myself through the toughest physical challenge I've ever experienced, and here I am, alive to tell the tale. Korea is a nation of mountains, and one of the favorite past times of its people is hiking those mountains that cover the peninsula. In previous posts, I've recounted my own ventures into such endeavors - or I've at least shared a photo or two - but the truth is that I have ALWAYS struggled with physical exertion. If you know me, you know I enjoy a healthy lifestyle, but I've never been a very in-shape individual. Whether competing in school sports, participating in a 5k benefit, or anything involving keeping my body afloat in the water, I've never been known to excel athletically. My first big hike was four and a half years ago in Chile, and I thought I would die on the mountain. In Scotland, three years ago, I sat down and cried on the way up Dumyat. Now that I'm in Korea, I've hiked more frequently, but not necessarily more successfully. During the past ten months, Tony and I have cultivated a decent list of Korean mountains we've trekked:

• Chiaksan (1288m), 
• Seonginbong (983.6m), 
• Buraksan (158m),
• Namsan (468m), 
• Songnisan (1058m), 
• Yeonginsan (699.3m). 

...and yet, each time, I still struggled, falling behind the rest of the group and stopping constantly to catch my breath.

Then, Tony had this crazy idea to go to Seoraksan - the highest mountain in the most famous national park in Korea, and a popular destination for avid hikers from all over - and hike to the peak. He and Heather planned it all out - we would leave Friday night after school, stay the night near the mountain, and get up and go. I wasn't sure I'd make it. So I trained. I ran almost every day for two weeks. I walked to and from school as often as possible. I climbed the stairs twenty stories up in my apartment building, took a breath, and then descended once again.

Although exploring Seorak National Park had been on my Korean "bucket list," I can't say I ever desired to hike up the tallest mountain there. But there we were, Saturday morning, water and snacks packed, shoelaces tied, sunscreen forgotten. At 8am, we began the climb.

And after a few breaks, 5 kilometers of distance, 1700 meters of altitude, and 5 hours of vigorous exercise, we reached the summit! I did it - and without shedding a tear, or telling myself I couldn't make it. Of course, arguably the hardest part of a long hike is descending, because it's so hard on the joints, but that's besides the point: I had accomplished something BIG. I had done something I'd never thought possible: I had reached the top of the second-highest mountain range on the peninsula without doubting myself or fearing failure or even really struggling too much.

With six weeks left in our chapter in Korea, I've come to realize something that was true at the top of Seoraksan as well as in my personal and professional life here. I've learned to believe in myself more, to accept a challenge with a promise to do my best, and to follow through. If you spoke to me at the beginning of this adventure, back in August, you know that I had a very hard time adjusting. I couldn't eat the spicy food; for the first time in my life, I was unable to understand the language around me; and even my wild students left me thinking, "I can't do this." Back then, when I had found myself in a challenging environment, I immediately began to search for a way out. At that time, I truly didn't think I would still be here now, in Pyeongtaek, eating ddeokbokki and dak galbi that's even a bit too spicy for my dad, learning to read Hangeul and even to speak some basic Korean phrases, and still working this job with the same wonderful kids - kids who I never thought I'd grow to love and actually choose to continue teaching at the turn of the new semester. But I persevered. I changed my attitude. I started to have faith in myself.

And now, we've got less than fifty days left. Six teeny weeks to wrap up the life we've created here over the course of a year. To finish our intro to Korean textbook, to eat as much as possible of our favorite dishes, to see the beautiful sights that remain on our to-do list, and to say goodbye to the friends - and especially to the sweet, amazing, brilliant children that have blessed our lives.

At this point in a journey such as ours, we question what's next, and whether we're making the right decision by leaving. But we know we are on the right path. Korea has been a place where we've grown and learned so much - about a different culture, about our professional lives, about our true friends, and about our personal selves. We're ready for what's next, whatever that turns out to be. Bring on the next mountain; we'll see you at the top.

Four Days, Four Cities: Japan

Japón, Ilbon, Nippon, Japan. A lifelong dream! Finally, we had the opportunity – and some time – to make a trip across the pond (the East Sea, that is) to see the land of the rising sun. With only three days off of work before the weekend, we would have (not quite) four days in Japan, and we were determined to see all that we could see. My dad arrived in Korea at the end of April, five months after his previous visit. But this time, we would travel internationally together. So, a la Hamorsky fashion, the three of us planned a different city for each day. Ready, set, go!

Day 1: Tokyo

After leaving Incheon at 6:30pm (on day 0), we landed in Narita around 9pm and had to validate our JR Pass (tourist transportation pass) and navigate the metro system to arrive at our hostel after midnight. It was Dad’s first time in a hostel, and he was quite unimpressed; it wasn’t the nicest.

In the morning, we headed to the metro from Nippori toward Ueno Park, only two stops away. We grabbed breakfast at a local place – coffee and curry, Japanese style. But I was more interested in the panda omelet and matching panda latte; both were immensely unimpressive, but they looked cute. We walked around the park and watched street performers, bought sweet ice cream cones, meandered through the pathways. We saw some shrines and traditional handwashing stations and enjoyed the sunshine and clean air.

A panda party - breakfast of champions

Next, it was on to Fukuro no Mise in Tsukishima: an owl café! Surprisingly, despite Tony’s ambivalence about the many animal cafés in Seoul, he was stoked for this one. This small coffee shop housed two dozen owls of many sizes and species. Some were as small as guinea pigs and others were quite frighteningly large. The café workers rescued and cared for the birds and taught us how to properly hold and stroke them. They also limited the number of patrons in the venue at a time because of space limitations and as to not frighten the birds. These owls are not nocturnal because they don’t need to be; in the wild, owls are nocturnal because that’s when they hunt. In this home, though, they’re fed (raw meat like their diet in the wild), and therefore have no need to be nocturnal, so their routine matches that of the owners.

Tony took FIFTY ridiculously hilarious selfies like these

Next, we grabbed a lunch of (what I think were) Soba noodles in quite an interesting fashion. During our stay in Japan, we saw a few venues in which you place your order and pay on a vending machine that prints a ticket which you deliver to the cook nearby. The noodles were quite salty but tasty, and we ate some delicious Japanese dumplings as well. After lunch, we visited Harajuku/Shibuya and its Yoyogi forest – a quite sizable forest in the heart of the city that removes all urban sights and sounds from view – and Meiji Shrine, which is dedicated to a former emperor. There, we shopped for souvenirs and enjoyed the juxtaposition of nature and city.

Noodles and the omnipresent local beer - Sapporo

Meiji Shrine in Tokyo

Now, the sun was setting as we were on our way to Shinjuku station, which is famous for its enormous crowds of people at all times. Inside the station are employed “people pushers” whose job it is to literally cram as many riders into the trains so that the doors may close; while we were there, it was quite crowded but not enough to warrant these workers at that particular time. Another reason this congested area is well-known is because just outside the station is a street intersection which is famous for its unending throngs of pedestrians who cross every which way at all hours of the day, every day. After crossing the intersection four times – just for fun – we grabbed some tea, coffee, and cake inside a café overlooking the multitudes.

Throngs of this magnitude pass through the intersection
every time the crosswalk signals turn green, every few minutes.

Last, as night set in, we hurried to Sumida where the second-tallest building (after Dubai’s Burj Khalifa) is located: the Tokyo Skytree. Conscious that tourist hours were until ten, we arrived just at nine, but unfortunately, they had sold their last tickets of the day. We had just missed it! But, we enjoyed seeing the enormous, lit-up tower up-close, and we had a chance to buy some famous Tokyo treats there as well. Finally, we made our way back to our hostel in order to start our next adventure bright and early the next day.

Day 2: Hakone

We left the hostel around 7am and traveled to Shinjuku to catch a bullet train at 8 toward Hakone. This was a leg of the trip I had really been looking forward to, but we had such bad luck. Hakone is a small town in the mountains near Mount Fuji, and it offers gorgeous natural scenes and views of the enormous mountain as well as sparkling lakes and many beautiful blooms. But, because it was a holiday, the destination was extremely crowded and we never even managed to board the cable car. So, instead, we made our way to Kyoto and checked into our Airbnb. In the end, most of this day was lost to train travel, unfortunately, but we did get to enjoy a traditional, high-quality dinner of sushi and tempura before wandering the neighborhood in the evening.

 

All right, maybe the lengthy voyage into this town was worth it for this view...

 

Luckily, although we didn't get to see the majestic Mount Fuji up close, we did manage to catch a glimpse of it out the window of our bullet train as we traveled toward Kyoto. Incredible!

Excellent sashimi (and tempura, not pictured)

Day 3: Kyoto

Our wishlist for Kyoto included three major points of interest: the Fushimi Inari Shrine, the bamboo forest of Arashiyama, and the Golden Pavilion (Kinkakuji). We were able to visit the first two, along with many other sights. First, we toured the most famous tourist destination, Fushimi Inari, which is famous for its tens of thousands of wooden, angular archways (torii) painted a distinctive, bright orange color. This shrine was enormous! We wandered about it for a while, but it would have taken many hours to see it all. We bought some souvenir gifts for family and then made our way to Arashiyama station and ducked into a café to avoid the rain that had just begun. I had matcha pancakes and a matcha latte, because, well, “when in Rome.” The venue had previously been a traditional bathhouse that was converted into a restaurant/café in recent years.

Matcha, matcha, and more matcha

At the entrance of Fushimi Inari

Walking through one of the many, endless pathways lined with torii

After the rain subsided, we saw the gondola-dotted Hozu River, and wandered through the many shops nearby. Then, we viewed a local temple and wandered through the thick bamboo forest, whose shoots were so dense that the atmosphere instantly became considerably cooler and darker. Our last desire was to see the golden shrine, Kinkakuji, but considering the hour-and-a-half round-trip bus ride plus the time it would take to tour it, we realized we didn’t have time before our next bullet train, so instead we stopped for coffee, sweets, and a much-needed breather.

About to cross the bridge over the Hozu

The river is quite shallow, so instead of paddling through the water, he touched his pole to the ground and walked to and fro in the bow, pushing the boat forward.

So many women dressed in Kimono in Kyoto

This photo was taken in the mid-afternoon, although the shoots block out the sunlight!

Our train departed before seven and we arrived in Hiroshima – our last stop – around nine. We dropped our bags at our hostel and, with only ten or so hours before our bus would take us to the airport in the morning, we set out to find the A-bomb site, which my father (the history buff) was interested in. Hiroshima commemorates the tragic incident with a difficult-to-find, nondescript plaque located directly below the spot where the plane released the bomb in 1945. A few blocks away we found the Peace Park and Atomic Dome, a dilapidated building that had managed to not be completely decimated in the explosion, which remains half-intact as a reminder of the destruction of nuclear weapons. It was lit up in the night, next to the still waters of one of the city’s many rivers, and the sight was eerie and somber. Throughout our visit in Japan, and especially in Hiroshima, I noticed the way that the Japanese grieve and rationalize the aftermath of World War II; their coping mechanism parallels but also opposes our own American 9/11 motto. While every September, we say to ourselves in retrospective solidarity, “Never forget,” the Japanese take a more future-oriented, imploringly hopeful approach: “Never again.”

My dad read about the location of this innocuous plaque which marked the exact spot above which the bomb was deployed.

An ominous scene: the A-Bomb Dome at night

Day 4: Hiroshima

After getting lost until 1am, unable to find our way from the Dome back to the hostel and ending up probably a mile away with no cell phone battery and unable to navigate the labyrinth of rivers, we slept only a few hours before our last check-out. At 7:45am, we boarded a bus toward the airport and, wouldn’t you know it, my dad found himself sitting next to a woman who had been born in the outskirts of Hiroshima in 1944. She recounted tales from her father’s heroic - and horrifying - ventures into the city to rescue the victims of his country-people, himself suffering radiation poisoning but miraculously recovering, ultimately unable to ever forgive the USA for our horrific act of ruthless violence. As a member of the following generation, our new friend was not so bitter toward our nation because she recognized that our armed forces helped rebuild and recover much of the country, but that chapter of her country’s history still remains a dark mark on every Japanese citizen’s mind, surely. We even talked a bit about the current turmoil with North Korea and if Japan is worried – it seems their concern falls somewhere between the US’s apprehension and South Korea’s almost complete lack of anxiety. Plus, she laughed when Trump was brought up and confessed that Sanders would have been the best choice, so she and I ended on good terms.

At last, we descended over Incheon once more. Ah, the smog! I can't express how clean Japan was; I didn't even realize how polluted Korea was until I had something to compare it next to so drastically. An incredible whirlwind of an adventure with two of my favorite men had concluded. We checked another place off our bucket list, but, like many over our travel destinations, it remains a place we'd love to see again!