After a week of visiting friends at Westminster, and then spending a night to visit another in Erie, Tony and I went out to dinner with his parents and then wrote thank-you notes and wrapped Christmas gifts. It was great spending time with family again. That's definitely something I'd missed while away.
The next day, my Dad and I were heading to the grocery store after church when another car pulled out across two lanes right in front of me - or more accurately, right into me. I got an estimate for the damage done: $2200. I feel for the lady who hit me though: she damaged both doors on one side, plus a fender on her new 2012 Mercedes Benz. Plus she'll have to pay my way since I did nothing wrong. "'Tis the season," she said to me. I guess that's a more optimistic thing to say than "bah humbug" after you cause $12000 worth of damage in an automobile accident. At least no one was hurt.
Tony and I opened a brand new savings account yesterday to start saving up for the big day. We've got a LOT of time to save up for a wedding, but I'm thrilled with every step we take. This fantasy become more and more real everyday, and we're both so excited. Later we made gingerbread cookies, went out for wing night with some friends, and saw the latest Twilight (I'm beginning to lose the embarrassment for my fan-hood of the series. The movie last night was actually fantastic).
Today, my mechanic uncle fixed a problem with the Grey Ghost. For a while now, the car hasn't been starting when the weather's very cold. Uncle John took a look at it and within minutes knew what we needed. He sent us to pick up the auto-part and installed it when we got back. He said the work was free of charge - we only payed for the part, and now the Ghost is running better than ever! Tone and I are going to make him a beer-tree for Christmas, since he wouldn't accept any pay. I have to figure out what exactly that means, but I'm feeling creative.
Wednesday, December 19, 2012
Tuesday, December 11, 2012
Una semana en el cielo
Well, this post is so far overdue. It's probably about time that I post about the best week of my life.
Tony came to visit me in Chile, which speaks volumes, in my opinion, about his commitment and love for me. Some people thought it was silly that he was coming to visit with a mere dozen days left to my return, but his visit meant so much more than that. Not only did I get to see my best friend after four months apart, but he got to see and feel and taste exactly what I've been living for those four months. I could have always simply described my experiences to him, but there's no way to accurately describe a ride in a micro up the cerro, or the cute but dirty pups lying about in the street, or the smell of sea lions twenty feet from your spot on the beach. He came, and he experienced it himself. What a great man.
I got up nice and early Monday morning to bus-hop my way to the airport in Santiago. Two and a half hours and three buses after stepping out the door with my palta-on-toast, I was trying to find my way to the recent arrivals area. I was a little lost, but I followed the mobs (I can only imagine how confused Tony felt in a sea of latinos at the start of his first international adventure). I made my way to the sidewalk: dark hair, dark hair, dark hair... Suddenly, my eyes landed on a familiar face that belonged to a blonde man sitting on a cement bench, looking right back at me. I can't decide whether I'm proud or slightly embarrassed to admit that I ran into his open arms and even cried a little bit. We were reunited.
Everything was the same as before. Only, I was tanner for once. Nothing felt different, but everything felt perfect. We boarded a bus and navigated our way back to Valparaiso, chatting non-stop and kissing a little bit too. We got to Valpo after two hours and I couldn't wait to show him around. "Look at the hills over there," "Check out those houses up here." We were both so excited to be reunited and to finally share some memories here together, at last.
Well, the week certainly flew by. Our first day, he rode the micro (public in-city transit bus) for the first time - with a suitcase on board. He got to see how crazy they drive and how tight you have to hold on if you aren't lucky enough to have a seat. He met my host family and we ate lunch - porotos, a bean soup - together. It was my first opportunity for translation. His Spanish is minimal and my host parents know practically no English. My sisters can communicate with Tony alright, and Felipe speaks fair English. It was exciting to have someone new at lunch, and my family loved him right away! Later, we walked to the university, along the coast. He wandered the town for a bit while I took a final exam, and then we met up and enjoyed each other's company at the pier in the harbor.
Later, we went to an intercultural festival hosted by my university. There were a dozen or so booths set up that represented countries around the world - Italy, Portugal, Japan, Mexico, and more. They each had samples of typical foods and drinks that belonged to the particular country. It was a delicious and fun way to learn a little bit about different nations! There was also entertainment provided - some of my classmates from dance class put on a little showcase of different traditional Chilean dances. I knew each of them, because I took the class, but I was excited that Tony got to see a bit more about Chilean culture. On the walk home in the evening, Tony and I stopped by the rocks in the harbor and perched upon one to chat and watch the sunset. I couldn't have asked for a better first day with my love.
Tuesday was a memorable day for certain. Rachael and I presented a final project about our educational experience with our high school students. I think that we did a great job with it; it was creative, and our passion for teaching was evident. Afterward, I had my last class with my favorite teacher, Miguel Angel. Then, Kris, Brandon, Rachael, Tony, and I went to Sabor Porteno for some empanadas. Tony really liked his first empanada - we shared one that was shrimp and cheese, and another that was pollo pino - traditional onion, olive, egg, sauce, but with chicken instead of ground meat. We all went home as a group, and while Rachael worked on a group project, Tony and I had once with the family. The two of us went for a walk at dusk, and I showed him the park I often run to. We searched the hills for the best view of the city lights at sundown. The night-time view of Valparaiso is beautiful, and I was happy to share it with Tony. Later that night, at home, we were talking about our future together, and I felt so comfortable to be back with him. He told me that he knew I'd make a wonderful wife and a great mother, too. He asked me if I would take his name. Then he got up, crossed over to his suitcase, and pulled something small out. The next thing I knew, he was on one knee, and he looked at me and said, "Quieres casarte conmigo?" Will you marry me? I was so overwhelmed by such delighted disbelief, that I just exclaimed, "Yes," several times. I couldn't believe it. We hugged, kissed, my smile couldn't be erased. We left the house to buy some champagne, but all of the stores were closed at such a late hour. Instead, we shared a bit of my family's wine to toast to our new engagement. We went to sleep so happily that night.
The next morning, we grabbed some breakfast and walked way downhill to the beach. We laid out for a while, listened to some Matisyahu, and Tony eventually took a dip in the Pacific for the first time! (It was too cold for my liking, but I took pictures instead!) We even traipsed down the sand a bit to the fishing pier, where the fishermen were chucking some chum over the rail onto the beach below. The sea lions had a jackpot to fight over, and we were amazed to be so close to those enormous sea mammals. That night was ISA's Thanksgiving dinner, but the only item that resembled the holiday was the turkey. All the stuffing and mashed potatoes were gone by the time we got to the buffet, and there was no gravy in sight. It was nice to have everyone together to celebrate the holiday before the program ended, but it was a strange sensation introducing Tony for the first time as my fiance.
The rest of the week flew too quickly. In Bellavista, we had seafood soup, corn shepard's pie, and wine for lunch and then found the best view of the city atop a nearly 200-step stairway. We baked a pumpkin pie from scratch for the first time ever. We celebrated Thanksgiving with my host family by showing Tony the South American way of the asado. He tried his first pisco sour and fell in love with South American beef. We shared our thanks with the family and my host parents told me that he was a big man with a big heart and didn't have to pay for his stay because he is always welcome as their guest. We visited the dunes and the oceanic rock in Con Con, only to have our feet scorched by the hot sand, and our eyes and hair whipped with sandy cold air. We fell asleep on a beach and got terribly sunburnt. We bought gifts for our families at the artesanias. We made make-shift s'mores over the stove-top with Rachael. We picnicked in the botanical gardens with Rachael and her man friend Cesar. We bought delicious ice cream cones at Grido three times.
And then it was time to take him back to the airport.
But I wasn't sad that my very favorite week was coming to an end. I was disappointed that Tony had to leave my city, but I knew that my time left in Chile was short. In one week, I'd be heading home to him, to the man who makes me most happy. And I would miss Valparaiso - I already do - but it was time to go home too.
Tony came to visit me in Chile, which speaks volumes, in my opinion, about his commitment and love for me. Some people thought it was silly that he was coming to visit with a mere dozen days left to my return, but his visit meant so much more than that. Not only did I get to see my best friend after four months apart, but he got to see and feel and taste exactly what I've been living for those four months. I could have always simply described my experiences to him, but there's no way to accurately describe a ride in a micro up the cerro, or the cute but dirty pups lying about in the street, or the smell of sea lions twenty feet from your spot on the beach. He came, and he experienced it himself. What a great man.
I got up nice and early Monday morning to bus-hop my way to the airport in Santiago. Two and a half hours and three buses after stepping out the door with my palta-on-toast, I was trying to find my way to the recent arrivals area. I was a little lost, but I followed the mobs (I can only imagine how confused Tony felt in a sea of latinos at the start of his first international adventure). I made my way to the sidewalk: dark hair, dark hair, dark hair... Suddenly, my eyes landed on a familiar face that belonged to a blonde man sitting on a cement bench, looking right back at me. I can't decide whether I'm proud or slightly embarrassed to admit that I ran into his open arms and even cried a little bit. We were reunited.
Everything was the same as before. Only, I was tanner for once. Nothing felt different, but everything felt perfect. We boarded a bus and navigated our way back to Valparaiso, chatting non-stop and kissing a little bit too. We got to Valpo after two hours and I couldn't wait to show him around. "Look at the hills over there," "Check out those houses up here." We were both so excited to be reunited and to finally share some memories here together, at last.
Well, the week certainly flew by. Our first day, he rode the micro (public in-city transit bus) for the first time - with a suitcase on board. He got to see how crazy they drive and how tight you have to hold on if you aren't lucky enough to have a seat. He met my host family and we ate lunch - porotos, a bean soup - together. It was my first opportunity for translation. His Spanish is minimal and my host parents know practically no English. My sisters can communicate with Tony alright, and Felipe speaks fair English. It was exciting to have someone new at lunch, and my family loved him right away! Later, we walked to the university, along the coast. He wandered the town for a bit while I took a final exam, and then we met up and enjoyed each other's company at the pier in the harbor.
Later, we went to an intercultural festival hosted by my university. There were a dozen or so booths set up that represented countries around the world - Italy, Portugal, Japan, Mexico, and more. They each had samples of typical foods and drinks that belonged to the particular country. It was a delicious and fun way to learn a little bit about different nations! There was also entertainment provided - some of my classmates from dance class put on a little showcase of different traditional Chilean dances. I knew each of them, because I took the class, but I was excited that Tony got to see a bit more about Chilean culture. On the walk home in the evening, Tony and I stopped by the rocks in the harbor and perched upon one to chat and watch the sunset. I couldn't have asked for a better first day with my love.
Tuesday was a memorable day for certain. Rachael and I presented a final project about our educational experience with our high school students. I think that we did a great job with it; it was creative, and our passion for teaching was evident. Afterward, I had my last class with my favorite teacher, Miguel Angel. Then, Kris, Brandon, Rachael, Tony, and I went to Sabor Porteno for some empanadas. Tony really liked his first empanada - we shared one that was shrimp and cheese, and another that was pollo pino - traditional onion, olive, egg, sauce, but with chicken instead of ground meat. We all went home as a group, and while Rachael worked on a group project, Tony and I had once with the family. The two of us went for a walk at dusk, and I showed him the park I often run to. We searched the hills for the best view of the city lights at sundown. The night-time view of Valparaiso is beautiful, and I was happy to share it with Tony. Later that night, at home, we were talking about our future together, and I felt so comfortable to be back with him. He told me that he knew I'd make a wonderful wife and a great mother, too. He asked me if I would take his name. Then he got up, crossed over to his suitcase, and pulled something small out. The next thing I knew, he was on one knee, and he looked at me and said, "Quieres casarte conmigo?" Will you marry me? I was so overwhelmed by such delighted disbelief, that I just exclaimed, "Yes," several times. I couldn't believe it. We hugged, kissed, my smile couldn't be erased. We left the house to buy some champagne, but all of the stores were closed at such a late hour. Instead, we shared a bit of my family's wine to toast to our new engagement. We went to sleep so happily that night.
The next morning, we grabbed some breakfast and walked way downhill to the beach. We laid out for a while, listened to some Matisyahu, and Tony eventually took a dip in the Pacific for the first time! (It was too cold for my liking, but I took pictures instead!) We even traipsed down the sand a bit to the fishing pier, where the fishermen were chucking some chum over the rail onto the beach below. The sea lions had a jackpot to fight over, and we were amazed to be so close to those enormous sea mammals. That night was ISA's Thanksgiving dinner, but the only item that resembled the holiday was the turkey. All the stuffing and mashed potatoes were gone by the time we got to the buffet, and there was no gravy in sight. It was nice to have everyone together to celebrate the holiday before the program ended, but it was a strange sensation introducing Tony for the first time as my fiance.
The rest of the week flew too quickly. In Bellavista, we had seafood soup, corn shepard's pie, and wine for lunch and then found the best view of the city atop a nearly 200-step stairway. We baked a pumpkin pie from scratch for the first time ever. We celebrated Thanksgiving with my host family by showing Tony the South American way of the asado. He tried his first pisco sour and fell in love with South American beef. We shared our thanks with the family and my host parents told me that he was a big man with a big heart and didn't have to pay for his stay because he is always welcome as their guest. We visited the dunes and the oceanic rock in Con Con, only to have our feet scorched by the hot sand, and our eyes and hair whipped with sandy cold air. We fell asleep on a beach and got terribly sunburnt. We bought gifts for our families at the artesanias. We made make-shift s'mores over the stove-top with Rachael. We picnicked in the botanical gardens with Rachael and her man friend Cesar. We bought delicious ice cream cones at Grido three times.
And then it was time to take him back to the airport.
But I wasn't sad that my very favorite week was coming to an end. I was disappointed that Tony had to leave my city, but I knew that my time left in Chile was short. In one week, I'd be heading home to him, to the man who makes me most happy. And I would miss Valparaiso - I already do - but it was time to go home too.
Monday, December 3, 2012
good morning, HOME
Today, I woke up in my bed. The one in Pennsylvania. I haven't been home since mid-July, so it felt very different waking up here. The bed was too big, the sky was too grey, and once I moseyed on down to the kitchen, I found that there were way too many choices for breakfast!
One of the most exciting changes since I've been home is the food I can eat. Chile has superb produce and seafood - arguably the best in the world - but I've been missing variety in my cuisine. Also, my diet down south wasn't the healthiest, so I've decided to make some healthful changes (at least until Christmas cookies come around).
For breakfast this morning, I took full advantage of the presence of peanut butter in the pantry. Not only is peanut butter unreasonably expensive in Chile, it is also insanely unpopular. Rachael and I bought a couple of jars throughout our journey, but it was a luxury because its price was far too high.
Also, while I was gone, Mom obtained a VitaMix blender - one of the high-quality commercial type. We had blenders like that at Panera, and they will grind up anything.
Excited to have my first smoothie in far too long, I got creative. I threw in a bit more than half a banana, about twenty raisins, maybe a fourth a cup of oats, a large splash of milk, and a helping of smooth peanut butter. (Clearly, I was way too excited to wait around with measuring things, plus I was experimenting.) Oh, and I threw in three ice cubes, of course.
With a little scoop of jelly, this would be the perfect "TUB PBJ wrap smoothie." Maybe I was being nostalgic after my campus visit last night for Christmas Vespers.
I paired this thick and salty beverage with some Christmas-themed eggs: one egg from my aunt's farm, shredded cheddar, and a bit of chopped tomato and green pepper. (Again, I was too thrilled to eat that I forgot to take a picture of my pretty egg masterpiece.)
I guess one might say I'm happy to be home for the holidays.
One of the most exciting changes since I've been home is the food I can eat. Chile has superb produce and seafood - arguably the best in the world - but I've been missing variety in my cuisine. Also, my diet down south wasn't the healthiest, so I've decided to make some healthful changes (at least until Christmas cookies come around).
For breakfast this morning, I took full advantage of the presence of peanut butter in the pantry. Not only is peanut butter unreasonably expensive in Chile, it is also insanely unpopular. Rachael and I bought a couple of jars throughout our journey, but it was a luxury because its price was far too high.
Also, while I was gone, Mom obtained a VitaMix blender - one of the high-quality commercial type. We had blenders like that at Panera, and they will grind up anything.
With a little scoop of jelly, this would be the perfect "TUB PBJ wrap smoothie." Maybe I was being nostalgic after my campus visit last night for Christmas Vespers.
I paired this thick and salty beverage with some Christmas-themed eggs: one egg from my aunt's farm, shredded cheddar, and a bit of chopped tomato and green pepper. (Again, I was too thrilled to eat that I forgot to take a picture of my pretty egg masterpiece.)
I guess one might say I'm happy to be home for the holidays.
Friday, November 30, 2012
Homage to my home girl
One of my most unique relationships. We went from acquaintances to friends in a matter of two days. All it took was a day of hectic travel mishaps, a sleepover in Cranberry, and the final departure at the airport. From the Pain Train on, it was obvious we were going to be friends.
Living with Rachael every day for the past four months has been something I've gotten so used to. Imagining not seeing her next week is a strange thing. We eat all our meals together. She has become my Chilean/gringa sister - NO ONE else holds that title in my heart! (Mostly because it doesn't make sense.)
I'd like this blogpost to be a nice little shout-out to the girl that has moved from Sligo to Valpo, from Recreo to Esperanza, back to Pennsylvania, and into my life.;.lp[=0- (the last few characters was contribution from Little Dumper.)
For Shiny Dog.
Living with Rachael every day for the past four months has been something I've gotten so used to. Imagining not seeing her next week is a strange thing. We eat all our meals together. She has become my Chilean/gringa sister - NO ONE else holds that title in my heart! (Mostly because it doesn't make sense.)
I'd like this blogpost to be a nice little shout-out to the girl that has moved from Sligo to Valpo, from Recreo to Esperanza, back to Pennsylvania, and into my life.;.lp[=0- (the last few characters was contribution from Little Dumper.) |
| For always baking with me, for culinary successes and failures |
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| For teaching these awesome kids with me |
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| For dealing with these ones |
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| And especially this one |
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| For teaching me how to climb a mountain |
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| For cuddling with me! |
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| For sharing so many good times |
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| For being there, formaking the most of the bad times |
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| For traveling with me, for sharing the world's beauty |
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| For becoming my sister |
For Shiny Dog.
Thursday, November 15, 2012
El SurReal - Last Stop: Pucón
After eight days of travel with my partner in crime, Rachael, we finally met up with the rest of the group in Pucón. ISA included a big trip to this beautiful tourist spot for the whole weekend, and it was definitely worth it. The rest of our classmates took a bus from Valpo all the way down to Pucón, and we met them there the morning of the 12th.
That day, we all went on a tour that showed us many of the facets of the town. We spent time sightseeing the beautiful streams, waterfalls, and greenery that the south of Chile has to offer; we visited an indigenous Mapuche household, discussed culture and got to try homemade treats; and we finished the day by passing a few hours at the natural hot springs. | |||||
| original sopaipillas (not donuts!) |
On Saturday, I spent the day with friends at the National Park, hiking for a bit but mostly relaxing in the sun. And on Sunday, we went zip-lining! I wasn't too nervous because it was my second time. I actually felt more secure hanging from the line than climbing up the wonky ladders on the trees that were blowing in the wind. |
| Volcán Villarrica |
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| took this shot whilst zipping over a river. |
Wednesday, November 7, 2012
El SurReal - Puerto Varas
I write this on my last night in Puerto Varas, a small town that reminds me of a western, though I've never really been to the west of the US other than San Fransisco. There are lots of wooden houses, and the architecture shows heavy German influence. I like the town because every few shops has something different to offer: coffee shops, chocolates, handmade crafts, restaurants, hostals, outdoor gear, even yarn shops.
Rachael, Chad, and I headed over on a bus to Volcan Osorno. It was a $4, one-and-a-half to two-hour bus ride, and we were ready to trek, despite the misty weather. We packed a lunch of salami, cucumber, tomato -- and forgot the bread. Instead, we made mini stacks and chowed down. We hiked around through beds of solidified lava at the base of the volcano. It was a beautiful sight, but the cloudiness of the day blocked the view of the top of the volcano.
Later that night, we had a 'celebratory' dinner at a local hole-in-the-wall restaurant called "Donde el Gordito." But it wasn't just some random restaurant, and I wasn't dining with just any old people. This restaurant had been aired on Anthony Bourdain's show, "No Reservations," and I was chowing with two of his biggest fans. I ordered a bowl of crab chowder (chupa de jaiba), and it was phenomenal. Chad and Rachael shared congrio with jaiba sauce and white wine. They were in Travel Channel heaven, I'd say, and it was wonderful to experience with them.
The next morning, Chad left to go back to his job in Bariloche, Argentina. So it was just Rachael and I for the day, and we started off with a hearty breakfast at a cafe where we got a discount through our hostal. Score for frugal travelers. The best part was the fresh-squeezed orange juice. I have really been missing real juice, and the fresh-squeezed pulpiness of this glass of jugo really hit the spot.
After breakfast, we bought a few gifts for friends and family at the big artisanal
fair in town. We celebrated this victory because we finally found llama
sweaters (an obvious Chilean goal) and bought them for fairly cheap! Next, we took a bus to two towns that a guide book had suggested: Llanquihue and Frutillar. The only mildly interesting thing in Llanquihue was a small park with a pathway that showed tall wooden sculptures that had been carved over the years from native wood (Parque de las esculturas). Some of them were quite impressive, but it took us about twenty minutes to stroll through, and it wasn't really worth the trip. We took a bus right on to Frutillar, which was a very eerie town. It was almost deserted, and it had the feel of a nuketown - strangely perfect at first glace, but eerily vacant. We sat on the beach and listened to the chickens squawking until we couldn't take it anymore, strolled past the two storefronts in town, and shared a piece of pie. Then we got the heck out of there and headed back to the hostal.
We cooked raviolis for dinner and played cards for a while, and walked around the town for a bit. Later, the men from hostal 13 Lunas in Ancud came to stay at our hostal, and we spent the evening with them, drinking piscolas, streaming the presidential election, and playing Jenga til the wee hours of the morning.
Today, Rachael and I headed to a town called Petrohue, to the Parque Nacional famous for its waterfalls (saltos). Only upon entering the park did I realize that I had forgotten my camera at the hostal! I don't think I could have picked a worse day to leave my camera behind, because this place was breathtaking. After viewing a few of the waterfalls, Rachael's camera died. Bad luck for us, but we certainly got to enjoy the views first-hand.
The waterfalls were beyond impressive. The deep waters were a profound jade color, and the thinner rushing currents were a beautiful turquoise. The splashes from the falls between the volcanic rocks showed a contrast of white water on charcoal-black stone. I have never seen prettier blues in nature than I did in those waters today. Afterward, we walked through the dense woods where we encountered lush greenery and calm lakes. We ate our lunch on a giant rock that sat in a lake, surrounded by trees and pure nature. We saw bamboo and different types of ferns... Everything was so green and smelled so fresh and alive. It was a beautiful place and I'm so glad we went.
In the evening, after falling asleep on the bus ride home, we cooked up some vegetarian tacos - black beans, tomato and avocado. We walked through town for the last time and stopped at the same cafe that we had had breakfast at yesterday. We had coupons for $1.000 pesos off of a beer or a glass of wine, so she ordered a local brew and I had a glass of white wine. We planned out our final project for one of our classes and also shared a classy blueberry muffin.
Tomorrow, it's good-bye to Puerto Varas and hello to a five-hour bus ride to Villarica, where we will spend our last night before meeting up with our program in Pucon for the weekend.
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| Some sort of carpety moss that looks like little sheep! |
Later that night, we had a 'celebratory' dinner at a local hole-in-the-wall restaurant called "Donde el Gordito." But it wasn't just some random restaurant, and I wasn't dining with just any old people. This restaurant had been aired on Anthony Bourdain's show, "No Reservations," and I was chowing with two of his biggest fans. I ordered a bowl of crab chowder (chupa de jaiba), and it was phenomenal. Chad and Rachael shared congrio with jaiba sauce and white wine. They were in Travel Channel heaven, I'd say, and it was wonderful to experience with them.
The next morning, Chad left to go back to his job in Bariloche, Argentina. So it was just Rachael and I for the day, and we started off with a hearty breakfast at a cafe where we got a discount through our hostal. Score for frugal travelers. The best part was the fresh-squeezed orange juice. I have really been missing real juice, and the fresh-squeezed pulpiness of this glass of jugo really hit the spot.
After breakfast, we bought a few gifts for friends and family at the big artisanal
fair in town. We celebrated this victory because we finally found llama
sweaters (an obvious Chilean goal) and bought them for fairly cheap! Next, we took a bus to two towns that a guide book had suggested: Llanquihue and Frutillar. The only mildly interesting thing in Llanquihue was a small park with a pathway that showed tall wooden sculptures that had been carved over the years from native wood (Parque de las esculturas). Some of them were quite impressive, but it took us about twenty minutes to stroll through, and it wasn't really worth the trip. We took a bus right on to Frutillar, which was a very eerie town. It was almost deserted, and it had the feel of a nuketown - strangely perfect at first glace, but eerily vacant. We sat on the beach and listened to the chickens squawking until we couldn't take it anymore, strolled past the two storefronts in town, and shared a piece of pie. Then we got the heck out of there and headed back to the hostal. |
| Frutillar |
Today, Rachael and I headed to a town called Petrohue, to the Parque Nacional famous for its waterfalls (saltos). Only upon entering the park did I realize that I had forgotten my camera at the hostal! I don't think I could have picked a worse day to leave my camera behind, because this place was breathtaking. After viewing a few of the waterfalls, Rachael's camera died. Bad luck for us, but we certainly got to enjoy the views first-hand.
The waterfalls were beyond impressive. The deep waters were a profound jade color, and the thinner rushing currents were a beautiful turquoise. The splashes from the falls between the volcanic rocks showed a contrast of white water on charcoal-black stone. I have never seen prettier blues in nature than I did in those waters today. Afterward, we walked through the dense woods where we encountered lush greenery and calm lakes. We ate our lunch on a giant rock that sat in a lake, surrounded by trees and pure nature. We saw bamboo and different types of ferns... Everything was so green and smelled so fresh and alive. It was a beautiful place and I'm so glad we went.
In the evening, after falling asleep on the bus ride home, we cooked up some vegetarian tacos - black beans, tomato and avocado. We walked through town for the last time and stopped at the same cafe that we had had breakfast at yesterday. We had coupons for $1.000 pesos off of a beer or a glass of wine, so she ordered a local brew and I had a glass of white wine. We planned out our final project for one of our classes and also shared a classy blueberry muffin.
Tomorrow, it's good-bye to Puerto Varas and hello to a five-hour bus ride to Villarica, where we will spend our last night before meeting up with our program in Pucon for the weekend.
Sunday, November 4, 2012
El SurReal - Day 2 in Chiloé
Today was a fabulous day. It started with a free breakfast of green eggs. I couldn't help but think of good ol' Dr. Suess while feasted on these scrambled gems that are from a Mapuche breed of chickens in the south of Chile. Unfortunately, ham was nowhere in the picture, but the eggs were quite good.
We took an excursion with them today to see the penguins that the island of Chiloé is fairly famous for. It was fascinating to see penguins in nature, along with other native bird species, sea lions, and even two sea otters!
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| Magellan penguins hangin' out on a rock! The grey one at the bottom is the bebe |
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| Two li'l pengies swimming in the surf |
After the tour, we settled down for lunch at the only restaurant on the beach to try some quality seafood. Rachael and I shared some fresh salmon ceviche, which was delicious. Ceviche is, essentially, uncooked seafood that is safe to eat because it is cured by the citrus juices and onions that give it a strong, fresh flavor. Rachael and I also shared an empanada whose contents were cochayuyo - a type of tubey-looking seaweed that is abundant and often found on the beaches of Chile. It tasted bland, and that's all I can say about that. We slathered aji (hot sauce) onto the empanada so that it would taste like something. | ||
| Playa de Oro |
Later, after exploring the town of Ancud for a bit, Rachael and I went to the mercado with a guy we met from our hostal, Chad. We got to try a free sample of a shellfish called piure. The woman at the market stabbed a spongey clump of sea-thing with a knife, and after prying it open, plucked a slippery, slimy pink thing from its center. She squeezed a lemon over the thing, and said, "pruebalo." Try it. Somehow, we choked them down, but we chose to buy salmon for dinner instead of the strange shellfish. |
| Just carrying a slab of frozen salmon through town |
 |
| The fruits of our labor! |
Friday, November 2, 2012
El SurReal - Ancud, Chiloé
I woke up to Rachael asking me if I'd like a cup of tea, and a horde of roosters cock-a-doodle-dooing outside the window. I had to tear myself away from the warmth of the bed to rejoin the chilly morning of Puerto Montt. We feasted on leftover tomato-cous-cous-soup and biscuits for breakfast. Same as dinner, except tea instead of wine. (I had to convince Rach that we should save the second half of the bottle for another night, instead of breaking our fast with it in the morning...)
We took a colectivo back to the bus terminal area, passed some time at the artesanias with some pups and cats, and at last boarded for Ancud. Only an hour and a half into the bus ride did we wonder how a bus would transport us over the sea to the island of Chiloé. Well, folks, this is what happens. Your bus, along with a dozen and a half other motor vehicles, climbs aboard an enormous barge, and that barge scoots you across the water to Ancud. Duh.
Well, if the weather in Puerto Montt was undesirable, the weather here was wretched. As soon as we dismounted the bus at the terminal, the rain went from pitter-pattering to dumping right on our heads. We ran around in the rain with our bags, lost, cold, wet. Instead of finding our hostal right away, we parked ourselves in a restaurant to get dry and fill our growling stomachs. And did we do it right. We ordered burgers and fries: Rachael's was filled with palta (avocado), tomato, aji, onion, ham, mayo, ketchup. Mine, believe it or not, was decked with a fried egg, tocino (bacon), mustard, ketchup, aji, and tomato. All that and a heaping helping of fries. And somehow, I left my plate clean!
We remained in this funky, woodwind-soundtrack-playing restaurant for at least thirty minutes two long. Traveling really just puts your mind in a funny place. You'll realize that five minutes have passed and you don't know why, but your socks are wet and everything's funny...
Eventually, we got up, paid, and venture back out into the moisture to find our hostal. Luckily, we were only a few blocks away. We moved in without a problem and got comfy playing 500 Rummy to wait out the rain. After a while, the sun came back out and the day was suddenly beautiful. We explored the mercados (markets) and artesanias. We met this cute old man who told us about how different Chilotes (people from Chiloé) are from the rest of the people of Chile. Our chat definitely peaked the interest of the sociologist in me, and I think I have an idea about what to do for Capstone now...!
So far, I really like Chiloé! And can't wait to see more of it tomorrow.
We took a colectivo back to the bus terminal area, passed some time at the artesanias with some pups and cats, and at last boarded for Ancud. Only an hour and a half into the bus ride did we wonder how a bus would transport us over the sea to the island of Chiloé. Well, folks, this is what happens. Your bus, along with a dozen and a half other motor vehicles, climbs aboard an enormous barge, and that barge scoots you across the water to Ancud. Duh.
We remained in this funky, woodwind-soundtrack-playing restaurant for at least thirty minutes two long. Traveling really just puts your mind in a funny place. You'll realize that five minutes have passed and you don't know why, but your socks are wet and everything's funny...
Eventually, we got up, paid, and venture back out into the moisture to find our hostal. Luckily, we were only a few blocks away. We moved in without a problem and got comfy playing 500 Rummy to wait out the rain. After a while, the sun came back out and the day was suddenly beautiful. We explored the mercados (markets) and artesanias. We met this cute old man who told us about how different Chilotes (people from Chiloé) are from the rest of the people of Chile. Our chat definitely peaked the interest of the sociologist in me, and I think I have an idea about what to do for Capstone now...!
So far, I really like Chiloé! And can't wait to see more of it tomorrow.
El SurReal - A Puerto Montt!!
Well, here we are! Yesterday, Rachael and I took off from Santiago airport at 2PM, and about two hours later, we crash landed in Puerto Montt. Literally, the girl in the seat behind me shrieked when we touched down. I've got a mild fear of flying, especially during take-off, touch-down, or any turbulence. Great. Well, this time, I was absolutely terrified. Even Rachael got scared. "Remember that time our plane crashed?"
Upon landing, the change of climate was more than notable. We had left beautiful, sunny, warm Valparaiso to vacation in the overcast, chilly, and fairly rainy south of Chile. We found our "Hospedaje," where we'd be spending only one night. We ventured to the beautiful cemetery that adorned the small town and explored the colorfully decorated graves. This was the third cemetery I've seen in Chile, and the vibe is just so different than the negatively-charged idea of death in the States.
After enjoying not only a sopaipilla (fried pumpkin dough) lightly adorned in mostaza (mustard) and ají (hot sauce), but also mote con huesillos (food/drink: barley and semi-dried peach swimming in sweet juice), we bought a $4 bottle of wine and headed back to the mini-apartment for a relaxing evening. We cooked tomato soup with cous cous, sipped our cabernet souvignon, and sang along with Ingrid tunes. We had Butterfinger pumpkins for dessert (thanks again, Mom, for the Halloween goodies!) and eventually turned in for the night.
It turned out to be quite an enjoyable evening! We had heard that Puerto Montt was fome (boring) and not even worth the trip. However, despite its cloud cover and ghost-town feel, its vibe wasn't so bad. It was a somber kind of tranquility, reserved but friendly. I liked it there, but next, it's on to Ancud, Chiloé.
Upon landing, the change of climate was more than notable. We had left beautiful, sunny, warm Valparaiso to vacation in the overcast, chilly, and fairly rainy south of Chile. We found our "Hospedaje," where we'd be spending only one night. We ventured to the beautiful cemetery that adorned the small town and explored the colorfully decorated graves. This was the third cemetery I've seen in Chile, and the vibe is just so different than the negatively-charged idea of death in the States.
It turned out to be quite an enjoyable evening! We had heard that Puerto Montt was fome (boring) and not even worth the trip. However, despite its cloud cover and ghost-town feel, its vibe wasn't so bad. It was a somber kind of tranquility, reserved but friendly. I liked it there, but next, it's on to Ancud, Chiloé.
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